By: Aaron Wang (Erin Wong)
Background
Taiwan, or the Republic of China (ROC), is often viewed as a distant, self-contained island, buffered by the vast Pacific and shielded by the surrounding sea. The ocean can be seen as a blessing because although the ocean isolates the island of Taiwan, it creates a protective barrier against its neighbour which has increasingly adopted a belligerent rhetoric towards Taiwan. However, with this approach, it is forgotten that Taiwan is not only just one island, but rather a collection of islands. The ROC is in possession of many islands, some of them Specifically, this analysis focuses on the islands of Kinmen (Quemoy, 金門縣) and Matsu (連江縣), which lie just off the coast of the People’s Republic of China (PRC) and sit at the front lines of the ongoing geopolitical tension. With a combined civilian and military population of around 155,000 people[1][2], the intersection of ordinary civilian life and the geopolitical clashes of great powers presents a compelling area of study.
The frontline islands
Geography
The Islands of Kinmen and Matsu, governed by the ROC, are extremely close to the borders of the People’s Republic. With Kinmen being only 2 kilometers (1.2 miles) away from the city of Xiamen (厦门市), a major city in Fujian Province (福建) of the PRC, and the islands of Matsu resting a mere 9 kilometers (5.6 miles) away from Fujian, the sea is hardly a buffer. In fact, Kinmen is visible to the coast of the PRC. In the backdrop of such a polarizing conflict brewing in the Taiwan strait and South China Sea, the daily lives of civilians who reside on those islands are grossly overshadowed.
Kinmen is composed of two islands, Greater Kinmen and Lesser Kinmen. Juxtaposed geographically, they are also home to a few towns or townships. Jincheng Township (金城鎮), Jinning Township (金寧鄉), Jinsha Township (金沙鎮), and Jinhu Township (金湖鎮) all reside on Greater Kinmen and is connected to Lieyu Township (烈嶼鄉) which is located on Lesser Kinmen by a bridge and a ferry route.
Meanwhile, Matsu is an archipelago composed of many islands. With 36 islands making up Matsu and few of them inhabited, Matsu is much more spread out than Kinmen and is much smaller. There are two main centers of habitation: Nangang Township (南竿鄉) and Juguang Township (莒光鄉).
Figure 1: Geographical map depicting the locations of the Kinmen Islands and Matsu Islands relative to the People’s Republic of China and the Republic of China. (Figure source: Focaal Blog)
History
Kinmen
Kinmen has a militarized and strained modern history. At the height of the cold war, with tensions fresh due to the breakaway of the ROC and the recent conclusion of the [chinese civil war] Kinmen served as a forward base against any potential PRC invasion. As a result, it was heavily fortified and, thanks to US support at the peak of the Cold War, the ROC retained Kinmen from a burgeoning PRC. At the peak of tensions, Kinmen was the home of around 150,000 soldiers[3], not including civilians. Despite US support, Kinmen was not shielded from the consequences of the conflict. During the 1954 and 1958 Taiwan Straits Crises, Kinmen faced heavy direct artillery bombardment from the PRC as well as hostile aerial and nautical maneuvers[4].
However, in the 1990s as tensions eased, the ROC began to demilitarize Kinmen[5] and reduce its military presence from hundreds of thousands of troops to 10,000[6]. The civilian economy began to flourish and now the inhabitants of Kinmen are primarily civilian, with minimal military infrastructure.
Matsu
Matsu, compared to Kinmen, is much smaller in size and in population. Hosting around 12,000 inhabitants, it shares a similar militarized history as Kinmen, but faced less of a threat. Also heavily fortified at the height of the Cold War, Matsu faced intermittent bombardment from the PRC although the intensity was much diminished when compared to Kinmen’s bombardment. During the easing of tensions, Matsu also experienced a demilitarization and saw a transition from a military to a more civilian infrastructure. However, Matsu also still keeps a small military contingent for defense, but the demilitarization of both islands have demonstrated a greater thaw in cross-strait relations. However, cross-strait tensions remain dynamic and unpredictable, as demonstrated by the PRC’s 2022 military blockade following Speaker Pelosi’s visit to Taiwan.
Civilian Life on the Frontlines
General
Life in Kinmen and Matsu, despite being caught in the crossfire of a developing conflict, surprisingly blends and balances the ordinary routines of rural Taiwan with the looming awareness of geopolitical tension. Residents live in close communities, relying on agriculture, fishing, and even the economic engine of tourism for sustenance. Public services, education, and healthcare are generally comparable to those on Taiwan proper despite some gaps in access that are primarily attributed to a dispersed settlement pattern].
Military Disruptions
However, daily life is still shaped by a quiet resilience to geopolitical shifts and activities. Many residents have become accustomed to military drills, the presence of soldiers, and defense alerts.
Despite demilitarization, byproducts of cross-strait tensions still bleed into civilian life. Residents routinely experience restricted areas and heightened military presence during periods of tension. Beaches bristle with anti-tank obstacles and tanks are deployed to those beaches during tensions. Residents report PRC drones in the area and bouts of restricted airspace. While such disruptions have become normalized, they add an underlying uncertainty to civilian life[7].
Additionally, infrastructure on the two islands are dual-use. Ports, airports, and certain roads are designed for both civilian and military utility which may lead to delays, rerouted services, or evacuations during alerts, especially when the People’s Liberation Army (PLA) conducts exercises nearby.
2022 PLA Exercises
In the aftermath of Speaker Pelosi’s 2022 visit to Taiwan, the PRC reacted with the declaration of live-fire drills and military activity. With drills that also simulated blockades, for several days, transportation and logistics were halted or rerouted on the two islands. Airlines were redirected and flights were canceled. Although full-scale conflict was avoided, the event illustrated how easily Kinmen and Matsu could be isolated[8].
Identity
Although part of the ROC, Kinmen and Matsu are still deeply influenced by their Fujianese roots. Customs and dialects share a similarity with the nearby Fujian province that belongs to the PRC. However, after decades of ROC governance, there is undeniably a distinct Taiwanese identity. In the modern context, Kinmen and Matsu honour their role in the defense of the ROC. Bastions of military history, museums, fortifications, and abandoned bunkers attract domestic tourists, and cultural festivals often carry both traditional and patriotic themes.
Life is also distinctly different when compared to Taiwan proper. Due to its rural nature, life on Kinmen and Matsu is noticeably slower and more constrained. With limited opportunities in not only jobs but also higher education, military disruptions only add on to the constraints of life on these offshore islands. However, residents do benefit from tight community networks, lower living costs, and a strong sense of local identity forged through years of hardship.
Government subsidies, special economic zones, and tourism initiatives help maintain viability on these local island economies. Still, younger generations often leave for mainland Taiwan in search of broader prospects, leading to concerns about aging populations and demographic sustainability.
Voting Patterns
Politically, both Kinmen and Matsu lean toward pan-blue (KMT-aligned) parties as opposed to the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP). In fact, both islands are considered KMT strongholds. Local politics are also primarily dominated by KMT aligned politicians[9]. Part of this learning could potentially be explained by the resident’s desire to seek engagement with the PRC instead of independence movements that could invite military retaliation. Given that these islands would most likely be first to be affected by any tensions, voter preference for the KMT on the islands turns out to be much higher than the preference for the KMT in Taiwan proper, as illustrated by a DPP victory overall in the 2024 Taiwanese Presidential Election.
Conclusion
The islands of Kinmen and Matsu stand as a paradox as ordinary life unfolds under the extraordinary weight of geopolitical uncertainty. Despite their strategic location and historical militarization, these islands are not defined solely by conflict. Instead, they are home to resilient communities that have adapted to a unique reality. Traditions and everyday life continue despite drills, tourism flourishes, and local politics shift. As Taiwan’s frontline outposts, Kinmen and Matsu offer valuable insight into the human dimension of cross-strait tensions. They remind us that beyond policy debates and military posturing, there are real people living on the edge who do not deserve to be overshadowed by the constant dialogue of conflict.
[1] “Kinmen Overview.” ETA Taiwan, https://taiwan-etaprogram.org/km-overview.
[2] “Lianjiang.” City Population, https://www.citypopulation.de/en/taiwan/admin/32__lianjiang/.
[3] Chu, Ling-I, and Jinn-Yuh Hsu. “Cold War Islands and the Rebordering of the Nation/State: Kinma in the Taiwan Strait.” FocaalBlog, 18 June 2018, https://www.focaalblog.com/2018/06/18/ cold-war-islands-and-the-rebordering-of-the-nationstate-kinma-in-the-taiwan-strait/.
[4] Halperin, Morton H. “The 1958 Taiwan Straits Crisis: A Documented History.” RAND Corporation, 1996, https://www.rand.org/pubs/research_memoranda/RM4900.html.
[5] Kelter, Frederik. “Taiwan’s Outlying Islands Are at Risk.” Foreign Policy, 16 January 2023. https://foreignpolicy.com/2023/01/16/taiwan-kinmen-matsu-outlying-islands-china-war-risk/.
[6] Ming-teh, Shih. “Taiwan’s Kinmen and Matsu should not be an excuse for war.” Taiwan News. 5 August 2023. https://www.taiwannews.com.tw/news/4962599.
[7]Kelter, Frederik. “In Taiwan’s Kinmen, people hope for calm amid China tensions.” Al Jazeera, 11 August 2022. https://www.aljazeera.com/news/2022/8/11/in-taiwans-kinmen-people-hope- for-calm-amid-china-tensions
[8] Lee, Joyce, and Jamie Freed. “Airlines Scrap, Reroute Flights as China Fires Live Missiles in Drills near Taiwan.” Reuters, 4 Aug. 2022. https://www.reuters.com/world/asia-pacific/airlines- cancel-reroute-flights-during-chinese-military-drills-near-taiwan-2022-08-05/.
[9] Lii, Wen. “Reaching Beyond Traditional Voting Blocs: Taiwan’s DPP Launches Campaign in the Matsu Islands.” Taiwan Insight, 30 Mar. 2022. https://taiwaninsight.org/2022/03/30/reachi ng-beyond-traditional-voting-blocs-taiwans-dpp-launches-campaign-in-the-matsu-islands/

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